What a day in the Copper Canyon region. We rolled into Creel this afternoon under clear skies with the temperature pushing 70°F (21°C) and climbing even higher. Now that the sun’s down, the evening chill is creeping back in – it was a frosty 28°F (-2°C) this morning when we woke up in Hidalgo del Parral.
Today’s Ride: Hidalgo del Parral to Creel (about 220 miles)
We started the morning in Parral and finished in Creel, the mountain town famous as a stop on the Chepe (El Chepe) train that runs all the way from Los Mochis/Topolobampo (near Mazatlán) down to Chihuahua.
The route took us from Mexico 24 to Mexico 16. Google warned us about a toll section, but we never saw a booth – and honestly, no one could blame them. Parts of the road were so rough I was weaving in and out of my lane just to dodge potholes!
That said, it never slowed us down. My 2020 BMW R1250 GSA Adventure bike was running perfectly on its 50/50 tires. At one point I glanced down and realized I was doing 109 mph! I try to keep it under 104, but 94 mph feels like the sweet spot for cruising.
I was leading our group of four riders (including me). The Ducati Multistrada rider wasn’t feeling great, which actually worked out well – it kept me from getting too carried away. Once we hit the twisty section of Highway 16 surrounded by pine forests, I couldn’t resist opening it up. The air was crisp, the light was golden-hour perfect for photos, and the adrenaline was flowing. I’d blast ahead, then ease off so the group could catch up. If my bike had any more power, I might’ve gotten myself into trouble!
Highway 16 was the star of the day: sweeping curves, thousands of acres of apple orchards, and vibrant indigenous villages with people selling everything from huge copper pots to handmade crafts. The scenery – those endless golden fields in every shade – was absolutely stunning.
We stopped at a roadside stand selling the local small green apples grown only in this area. The vendor quoted 25 pesos… I thought per apple. Nope – 25 pesos per kilo! I grabbed 2 kg and ended up with about 30 apples in a plastic bag for pocket change. I’ve been handing them out like Johnny Appleseed: to the hotel staff, housekeepers, passers-by, and even Todd, who took four hoping they’ll settle his stomach.
Lunch at Lucita’s
My friend Roberto swore this place serves the only authentic indigenous dish in town, so I ordered it, plus a mountain of fries and a hibiscus (jamaica) drink. The other guys got tasty plates too (can’t remember exactly what – we were starving!). Our sick rider stayed back at the hotel “taking care of business.”
A Special Moment
On the walk to lunch, I ran into the same little Tarahumara girl I’ve seen on my two previous rides through here. I recognized her instantly! She’s grown taller, her skin a bit darker from the sun, and she’s definitely aged a few years. The first time we met, she was tiny – we all felt bad and bought tons of her trinkets, handing over way more money than needed.
She just kept selling with a big smile. Last trip, she was teaching a toddler (maybe 3 years old) how to do the same. The Tarahumara live a tough life, but they truly know how to work the land and make it provide. It was a heartwarming (and slightly bittersweet) reunion.
Evening Recovery
Dale and I were pretty sore from the ride, so we hit the hotel spa. The hot tub was scalding at first, but after 10 minutes it worked magic on our tired muscles – way better than a massage!
Tomorrow’s Plan (Now Down to Four Riders)
One rider is down for the count with a fever and stomach issues. He’ll move from our current hotel (The Lodge at Creel) to one closer to the Barrancas del Cobre Adventure Park so he can rest easy.
Two of us will hit the adventure park: zip-lining, rappelling, and the gondola ride with those insane canyon views.
The other rider will head all the way down to Batopilas (he’s never been), check it out, then ride back the same way and meet us at the hotel.
If we don’t hear from him… well, at least we’ll know exactly where to look! 😄
Short riding day today left plenty of time to relax, eat, and soak it all in. Loving every minute of this trip – the roads, the people, the scenery, and the perfect riding weather. More updates tomorrow after the canyon adventures!
Ride safe,
Ralph
Trawlercat Chronicles 