It’s 1 o’clock in the afternoon, and we just rolled into Candis, a charming hotel-restaurant in El Salto, Durango — right in the heart of Mexico’s Durango state.
We’re en route to Durango, where we’ll be staying at the Hotel El Gobernador (yes, the name always makes me think of a certain Austrian action star turned politician!).
This region feels like stepping back in time. El Salto was once a bustling railroad, mining, and forestry hub, and today it still carries that prosperous, well-preserved vibe from the old days. The area borders Sinaloa, and safety feels reassuring — especially on the legendary Highway 40D, better known as the Devil’s Backbone (Espinazo del Diablo).
This engineering marvel is one of Mexico’s most spectacular drives: twisting through the Sierra Madre Occidental with more tunnels and bridges than almost any other route in the world. The highlight? The Baluarte Bridge, currently the second-highest suspension bridge on the planet.
It’s a toll road (cuota) — expect to pay around 400 pesos to cross — but every peso is worth it for the jaw-dropping views.
Now, the bike update we’ve all been waiting for: After a day and a half stuck at the dealership in Culiacán, Dale’s BMW R 1300 GS finally got the green light.
The culprit? A zip tie that was cinched too tight around the sensor wire, creating intermittent signal issues and throwing the bike into limp mode.
Earlier hiccups included losing Dale near San Rafael (his bike had to be towed), and Brian’s KTM 1290 having mysterious fuel problems back in San Carlos — we suspected the diaphragm pump or filter, but once towed to Nogales, he rode it home without issue. Both turned out to be flukes. Adventure motorcycling, right?
Speaking of adventures, Durango (both the state and its capital) has a massive Hollywood connection — it’s often called “La Tierra del Cine” (The Land of Cinema). Since the 1950s, its dramatic mix of deserts, mountains, forests, and colonial towns has doubled as the Wild West for over 120-150 films.
Here are some iconic ones shot in the area:
The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (1966) – Sergio Leone’s masterpiece with Clint Eastwood
The Wild Bunch (1969) – Sam Peckinpah’s gritty classic
Multiple John Wayne films, including The Sons of Katie Elder (1965), The War Wagon (1967), Chisum (1970), Big Jake (1971), and Cahill U.S. Marshal (1973) — Wayne loved it so much he even bought his own ranch here!
The preserved movie sets in places like Chupaderos and Paseo del Viejo Oeste still stand today, complete with old saloons, jails, and frontier streets. They’re popular for tours, reenactments, and photos — pure cowboy nostalgia!
Later in the day, Dale caught up with us just in time for dinner at the hotel. Before that, Mike and I visited the Pancho Villa Museum (Museo Francisco Villa) in Victoria de Durango. We dove deep into the life of the revolutionary legend — weapons, photos, stories, and artifacts that bring Mexico’s turbulent history to life.
Pancho Villa (born José Doroteo Arango Arámbula on June 5, 1878 – died July 20, 1923) is one of the most legendary and colorful figures of the Mexican Revolution (1910–1920). He’s often called the “Centaur of the North” for his incredible horsemanship and guerrilla warfare skills, and many view him as a Mexican Robin Hood — a champion of the poor who stole from the rich.
In 1916, after falling out with other revolutionary leaders (especially Venustiano Carranza), Villa attacked the small town of Columbus, New Mexico, killing about 18 Americans. This provoked U.S. President Woodrow Wilson to send General John J. Pershing on the Punitive Expedition to capture him.
Despite thousands of U.S. troops chasing him for nearly a year, Villa — with his deep knowledge of northern Mexico’s terrain — always escaped. The expedition became a major embarrassment for the U.S. and boosted Villa’s legend as a symbol of resistance against foreign intervention.
The bikes are running, the scenery is unreal, and the history is everywhere. Durango is delivering on every level. 🏍️🌵
Trawlercat Chronicles 