Traveling to El Nido and Palawan’s Haunting WWII History
If you’re planning a trip to the stunning paradise of El Nido in Palawan, Philippines, getting there can be an adventure all in itself. It took me literally all day to do so including a very long (6-7) hours van ride on the north road.
Palawan is a land steeped in history, particularly the somber events of World War II. Yet, you wouldn’t know it as there’s no monuments , signs or otherwise anywhere on the North road from the airport in Puerto Princesa to the town of El Nido to the far north. I have managed to find three museums that do cover some of the WWII history.
The island is only about 270 miles long but, it saw some tremendous battles and hardships for the American military.
Flight Options from Manila to El Nido
Yes, there are direct flights from Manila (Ninoy Aquino International Airport, MNL) to El Nido Airport (ENI) in Palawan, Philippines, but they are very expensive and not always easy to book.
- Flight Duration: A direct flight from Manila to El Nido takes approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes.
- El Nido Airport (ENI) is the closest airport to El Nido, about 2.4 miles from the city center.
Another option, which I mistakenly chose without knowing better, is to fly into Puerto Princesa International Airport and then take a five/6 or even seven-hour shuttle to El Nido in the northern part of the island.
This route, favored by many travel bloggers on YouTube, is more affordable and accessible, though it adds ground travel time. It’s a great way to see more of Palawan’s landscapes along the way.
For my return journey, I plan to spend some time in Puerto Princesa and book some additional adventures.
Exploring Palawan’s WWII Sites: A Personal Reflection
I’d love to say I’m riding a motorcycle across Palawan, searching for World War II sites near where I landed, but, truth be told, I’m doing some book research and taking it all in. There are plenty of places here where one can be alone with their thoughts, surrounded only by the sounds of nature.
The Palawan Massacre
A little over a month after the Palawan Massacre, 123 hand-picked members of the U.S. Army 6th Ranger Battalion slipped through enemy lines on the island of Luzon, killed Japanese guards, and rescued over 500 sick and dying prisoners at a prison camp. This successful life-saving mission, detailed in the bestseller Ghost Soldiers by Hampton Sides, was partly motivated by the slaughter of 139 American POWs on Palawan.
Later, other rescue operations in the Philippines, including an airborne drop behind Japanese lines, saved American and British men, women, and children in a civilian prison camp.
The Rich History of Puerto Princesa
Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan, Philippines, has a history shaped by its strategic location and natural resources. Originally inhabited by indigenous groups like the Tagbanua and Batak, it was named in 1872 by the Spanish after Princess Eulalia of Spain.
The Spanish established Puerto Princesa as a settlement to counter Muslim raids and promote Christianization. In 1898, it came under American control, and during World War II, it was occupied by the Japanese.
Puerto Princesa’s WWII Legacy
In 1942, Japanese forces seized Puerto Princesa, establishing a garrison and using it as a base to control Palawan’s resources and monitor Allied movements in the Sulu Sea. The Japanese built fortifications and an airfield, exploiting local and prisoner labor to secure resources for their war effort.
One of the darkest episodes was the Palawan Massacre on December 14, 1944, when Japanese troops, fearing an Allied invasion, executed around 150 American prisoners of war held at Camp 10-A near Puerto Princesa.
The POWs were forced to dig their own graves, herded into air-raid shelters, doused with gasoline, and burned alive or shot as they tried to escape. Only 11 of the original 150 prisoners survived, escaping to report the atrocity, which fueled Allied resolve.
In early 1945, U.S. forces, supported by Filipino guerrillas, liberated Puerto Princesa during the Battle of Palawan (February–March 1945). The city faced heavy bombardment, destroying much of its infrastructure, including Spanish-era buildings and the Japanese airfield that prisoners were forced to build. Filipino resistance fighters played a crucial role, conducting sabotage and intelligence operations against the Japanese.
The war left Puerto Princesa devastated, with significant loss of life and property. Rebuilding efforts began under American administration, laying the foundation for the city we see today.
Final Thoughts
Whether you’re heading to El Nido for its breathtaking islands or delving into Palawan’s historical depths, this destination offers a mix of natural beauty and poignant reminders of the past. Don’t miss visiting sites like Plaza Cuartel to pay respects to those who endured WWII’s horrors. Safe travels!
Trawlercat Chronicles 