Sinaloa is supposed to be the land and state in Mexico recognized for having the most beautiful of women; only we never ventured to any place to see any; that is, unless you count that one toll booth pregnant operator early into all the toll booths.
The skies in the morning were picturesque all around, the mountains in the distance silhouetted against the sky. The air temperature was a refreshing 72 degrees.
The agave plant that produces the tequila was planted everywhere we looked. Picture Napa with wine grapes. Just like that but, with this spikey purple haze plant laid out in row after row after row. Simply beautiful.
And then the estuaries and mangrove’s made an appearance before a pine forest grew; before it all went back to a rolling desert. I even counted about 15 white pelicans sunning themselves. The brief few seconds that I saw them was a welcome distraction before I looked down at my cannonball speed of nearly 100 mph.
Mazatlan to Morelia, Michoacan is a whopping 489 mile ride with somewhere in the neighborhood of 37 tolls. I now vote Mazatlan as the Mexican state with the most beautiful and fast toll roads with an emphasis on the parting of the seas truckers. Let me explain. Picture you driving your bad ass exotic car or motorcycle made to go for the sake of argument 200 mph.
Usually the only limiting factors are those pinche puto pendejo baboso mother f……er truckers that get in the way and at times enjoy a good slugfest passing each other.
Now picture the toll roads in Michoacán; not-all of them just maybe the first 10-15 of them. It’s almost as if you were wearing a Superman cape while riding. We love Mexico and this stretch of Highway 15 Mexico.
The truckers in Michoacán see you coming and magically split the lanes towards the sides allowing you in your exotic or cannonball speed motorcycle to just pass through.
No slowing down or downshifting necessary. All but one seemed to have gotten the same memo. And then at about the time we near the city of Chapalla; it all suddenly grounded to a halt and everyone changed. Even the littlest of cars now developed an attitude about wanting to homestead the fast lane and not part with it. I looked at their license plate to see if they were gringos but, No. All Mexican plates, come to think of it-we haven’t seen one other foreign plate. Our plates are from Arizona, California and Alaska. Our less cannonballish group of the three firefighters are from Montana, Arizona and California.
Speaking of Chapalla. This is where I got lost today. Joey, Chris and Alaska Todd were kicking butt splitting traffic on a freeway that travels through town. I played it safe on account of all the traffic, police, a donkey cart turned over and such.
Before you know it, I found myself exited into town with and the first of many round abouts to last me a lifetime. The first thought that came to me was look at all these Mexican ms in one place.
I found a roundabout with maybe sixteen lights managing it. I lost the GPSKEVIN tracks and my iPhone maps just wasn’t doing it for me. It literally took me 35 minutes to find my way back out.
If you don’t know Chapalla, it’s near Lake Chapala that’s considered quite safe, however, it’s the pollution that can kill you. Guadalajara, just 45 minutes to the north, now that’s a different story.
And if you want to know more about Mexico then let me share some fun facts. Mexico touches the US on its southern border and people speak Spanish.
This is why these guys love me as I’m now the official fixer- on account of my Spanish speaking abilities in the land of well – Spanish. There’s this one time today when all of us blow past a Mexican cop standing by an overpass; since I was the last rider to pass him, I noticed his head doing a Barney Fife. By the time he would’ve gotten back into his patrol vehicle and turned on the lights; I think we nearly reached the next toll booth.
“Barney” Fife is this fictional character from my younger days in “The Andy Griffith Show”, portrayed by comic actor Don Knotts. Barney Fife plays the deputy sheriff in the slow-paced, sleepy southern community of Mayberry.
You also may have heard of some popular tourist destinations intermixed with dangerous cartels.
Did you know that if you travel at 100 mph you cover exactly 100 miles? Today I watched the miles just count down as I did my best to catch up with these guys. And the second time they lost me was in the twisties. They’re is only one section of twisties and these guys Chris, Joey and Todd just ate them up. Now I don’t mind traveling at 110 mph jn a straight line but, as the roads turned to twisties these guys actually speed up. The KTM 1290 I heard was doing 145 at one point. And that now brings me to back to the toll road.
The faster we travel, the faster we get to the next toll road. The way it turns out is, if you arrive first, you pay for the rest of the guys.
The toll operator when we all arrive together opens the gate and let’s out one rider at a time. The gate then drops down and when it opens again the next guy goes and on and on.
I considered it an honor to have arrived first on several occasions, with Joey taking first place for the most tolls paid; Chris receives an honorable mention but, Todd; now he drew the highest tolls paid. A whopping 147 pesos, on one toll alone, per rider. 147X 4 riders; you do the math.
So, in my book Todd won. Thank you Todd and thank you Joey for getting us here on day four of many more safely! Seriously, no one is being reckless given the conditions and the lack of any traffic at all on the toll roads.
Guacamole, señor? Soon the avocados were being hand ground in a lava-rock mortar and pestle, their smooth, creamy green color went in first, then the tomatoes and then the snowy onions. Drink up boys, it just doesn’t get any better than this.